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Last but not least, it's gotta look like it costs big dollars.Some of these externally don't look much different than those China amps they spit out by the thousands every week.
Make sure that you amplifier will do what you need it to do. In the 20 years that I have been in this business, I can count on 1 hand the number of speakers that have been blown because of too much power. Lets say you buy one of those 2000 watt jobs referred to in #1 of this post. The gain is there to match the output of your deck to the input of the amp. This will make for better sound and lower the odds of damaging your speakers.
Does it have high level inputs for direct connection to your factory deck? Make sure that the amp will be compatible with the ohm load that you are going to be wiring it up to. Make sure that you are not buying a monoblok (1 channel) amplifier for a 2 or 4 channel application… Make sure that the amp has crossovers that are compatible with the application you need. Nearly EVERY blown speaker that I have seen is the result of too little power! We’ve shown that the most it would produce is 405 watts. It has nothing to do with the speakers or subs the amp is hooked up to. Because the amp did not produce enough power, you artificially tried to boost the power.
Ditto for Clarion with the DRZ9255, or even Panasonic with their tube-based head unit.
I'm not saying SQ judges are the end-all and be-all (far from it), but there's a bunch of people out there who think they sound pretty darned good How "different" does something have to look?
HSS Fidelity full tube amp TRU Technology C7 series Brax GE Genesis Class A Musee (Japan) Mcintosh MCC Celestra VA Sinfoni Desiderio Luxman CM20000 Zelos Audio Phass RE series Bewith A-110S Pioneer ODR amp Alpine F1 amp just to name a few Wow! Coming from the home end of audio, a couple of these are scratches even before I listen or see them. Thinking more about this purchase, if I'm dropping 5 or 10 large on an amp, I want something made my a company who specializes in high end amps.
I don't want an amp from a company that also makes 9 amps available at Best Buy that some 16 y/o also has in his 1992 Honda Civic.Current Draw would be the total fuse rating of the amp and the efficiency constant is about .6 for Class AB amps and .8 for Class D amps.Lets say the amp is fused at 50 amps and it is a class AB.Check the fuse and do the math to make sure you are getting what you pay for.For more detailed information, check out this post and this video. You will be able to keep your gains at the proper setting. Use better judgement and the guidelines spelled out above and you will get better sound that will last for a long time. As always, a professional specialist shop like Mobile Edge can give you great advice on quality product that will make sure that you enjoy every minute of your daily commute!At the end of the day, isn't it about the sound and quality of the product, not the name?If you can get a chance, go to a IASCA, MECA or USACi SQ show.Does it have a subsonic filter for your ported subwoofer application? All of these questions and a lot more can be answered by a professional shop. You hook this up to your sub box and it disappoints. There is only one correct setting and it is determined by the deck not the speakers or subs. If you’ve been around car audio for a while you’ll know that in order to achieve successful amplification the following elements are essential; a clean source, a smart design, high quality components and plenty of raw power. The first is to look at the designer – is it well known for quality amplifiers and does it have a legacy of producing world-beating amplifiers?It’s very tempting to buy that 2000 watt amp for 9. Before you plop down your cash, do yourself a favor and check the fuses. Power = Voltage X Current Draw X Efficiency Constant..Average voltage of your vehicle may be around 13.5 Volt…